Not
all inks are created equal---there are dye inks and pigment inks. Dyes
penetrate the surface whereas pigments are surface-only applications. Inks
also have varying degrees of pigment saturation, and should be acid free
whether you choose to use the dye or pigment forms. Some inks need to be
heat set. Pigments are often soluble in water, and some dyes require alcohol
for cleanup. Always clean your stamps right away after use. Get in the habit
of closing lids on ink pads as soon as you stop stamping, keep them covered
when you are not actively using them, and store them pad-side-down so that
the ink stays on the surface of the pad as long as possible. These things
will extend the life of your inks and stamps a lot.
When using inks with polymer clay, thought should be given to chemical
interaction.
Sometimes changes occur only after time. For instance, black Sharpie
markers are used by some to sign their work--and the ink turns purple over
time and bleeds slightly into the surrounding clay. Prismacolor markers work
well with polymer clays. Krylon gold, silver and copper metallic ink
pens work well on polymer clays, as do some other brands but not all. Some
gel pens work; many supplies that artists in other media use work--I haven't
tried all of the kinds of art supplies on the market (though I'm certainly
tryng!) Its a very good idea to use a test piece of polymer clay and any
product you haven't used with it before, and see if the product dries and
wears well.
Ranger's line of Adirondack alcohol inks are used beautifully by many
artists both on top of and inside their clays. It can be used in surface
applications like stamping or flooded over areas that are partially covered
with metallic leaf that has been stretched, or mixed into translucent clay
to create spectacular color effects. Its is used along with mokume gane
layering techniques to great effect.
Clearsnap manufactures several
line of inks, stamps, embossing powders, and tools for their use. Some of
their pigment ink lines include Paintbox2, Colorbox, and Colorbox
Liquid Chalk.
They also make Ancient Page, a line of dye inks that are very
saturated. Note the difference in the picture above--two black inks are
used, and the Ancient Page black ink (shown on the bead and on part of the
discs) is visibly superior to the other brand. The medium grey value shown
on the upper disc is the Ancient Page black ink left on the stamp after the
first use.
(Note--the
product referenced above as "Flecto" is now Rust-Oleum Varathane.)
Here are some of the colors in the Clearsnap Fluid Chalk line, shown
stamped onto raw white and raw translucent Premo clay, then baked.
The colors are far more noticeable on the white background. These colors
have a very flowing, wet and yet opaque, chalky look, hence their name!
When baked, the Colorbox Fluid Chalk ink is still soluble in water or
Varathane, so a coating of Liquid Kato Clay or TLS should be used if a layer
of Varathane is going to be added.
Surfaces
can be left matte, but the inks are then not protected.
Dye inks do not need a top sealer, but Varathane can be used to add
shine.
Inks can also be stamped onto the surfaces of baked clay pieces.
Embossing powders, including Suze Weinberg's UTEE (Ultra Thick Embossing
Enamel), can be applied to the wet inks, or to embossing fluid.
Embossing powders should not be baked in the oven, so save them for the
last step, and use with a heat gun.
The pieces shown at left were stamped with Blue Iris Colorbox Fluid Chalk
Ink, and Top Boss Gold Embossing powder.
