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dye inks and pigment inks on polymer clayNot all inks are created equal---there are dye inks and pigment inks. Dyes penetrate the surface whereas pigments are surface-only applications. Inks also have varying degrees of pigment saturation, and should be acid free whether you choose to use the dye or pigment forms. Some inks need to be heat set. Pigments are often soluble in water, and some dyes require alcohol for cleanup. Always clean your stamps right away after use. Get in the habit of closing lids on ink pads as soon as you stop stamping, keep them covered when you are not actively using them, and store them pad-side-down so that the ink stays on the surface of the pad as long as possible. These things will extend the life of your inks and stamps a lot.

When using inks with polymer clay, thought should be given to chemical interaction.

Sometimes changes occur only after time. For instance, black Sharpie markers are used by some to sign their work--and the ink turns purple over time and bleeds slightly into the surrounding clay. Prismacolor markers work well with polymer clays. Krylon gold, silver  and copper metallic ink pens work well on polymer clays, as do some other brands but not all. Some gel pens work; many supplies that artists in other media use work--I haven't tried all of the kinds of art supplies on the market (though I'm certainly tryng!) Its a very good idea to use a test piece of polymer clay and any product you haven't used with it before, and see if the product dries and wears well. 

Ranger's line of Adirondack alcohol inks are used beautifully by many artists both on top of and inside their clays. It can be used in surface applications like stamping or flooded over areas that are partially covered with metallic leaf that has been stretched, or mixed into translucent clay to create spectacular color effects. Its is used along with mokume gane layering techniques to great effect.

Clearsnap manufactures several line of inks, stamps, embossing powders, and tools for their use. Some of their pigment ink lines include Paintbox2, Colorbox, and Colorbox Liquid Chalk.

They also make Ancient Page, a line of dye inks that are very saturated. Note the difference in the picture above--two black inks are used, and the Ancient Page black ink (shown on the bead and on part of the discs) is visibly superior to the other brand. The medium grey value shown on the upper disc is the Ancient Page black ink left on the stamp after the first use.

 

fluid chalk inks on polymer clay(Note--the product referenced above as "Flecto" is now Rust-Oleum Varathane.)

Here are some of the colors in the Clearsnap Fluid Chalk line, shown stamped onto raw white and raw translucent Premo clay, then baked.

The colors are far more noticeable on the white background. These colors have a very flowing, wet and yet opaque, chalky look, hence their name!

When baked, the Colorbox Fluid Chalk ink is still soluble in water or Varathane, so a coating of Liquid Kato Clay or TLS should be used if a layer of Varathane is going to be added.

earings and necklace with Fluid Chalk Ink, polymer clay, and embossing powderSurfaces can be left matte, but the inks are then not protected.

Dye inks do not need a top sealer, but Varathane can be used to add shine.

Inks can also be stamped onto the surfaces of baked clay pieces. Embossing powders, including Suze Weinberg's UTEE (Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel), can be applied to the wet inks, or to embossing fluid.

Embossing powders should not be baked in the oven, so save them for the last step, and use with a heat gun.

The pieces shown at left were stamped with Blue Iris Colorbox Fluid Chalk Ink, and Top Boss Gold Embossing powder.


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