Belly Dance Costumes
 Whether making full sized costumes or miniature versions
for dancers or dolls, both machine and hand sewing skills like beading
and embroidery are vital. But other talents come into play as well--design
skills, painting, even shopping! Finding things--NOTICING things--is an
art in itself!
Fabric paints add a lot to plain fabrics and you don't even need to
draw. You can follow existing design elements already in the fabric.
Adding colors, highlights, and the gleam of metallics, Lumiere fabric
paints are wonderful and easy to use. So are glitter paints.
Microbeads can also be added, or fine glitter can be sprinkled on to
wet paint areas.
Acrylics can be used, but fabric paints are better as they are meant
to have a little "give". The lace at the top of this originally
rather plain white bra provided the floral images to be colored in--this
time with gold glitter paint, and then outlined with pearl beads and a
sequined center.
 This costume is worn by a new full sized cloth
doll whose name is Golde.
She's made to mostly the same size as her cloth thespian
sister "Katherine".
I drafted the original pattern, and change it a bit each time.
Shown at left is a close up detail of the lace. The seam line was covered
by a line of sequins, and more sequins and small pearl finished glass beads.
Particularly
important to good costuming is developing an eye for detail--and for bargains,
and knowing where to find things.
Look outside the "usual" and think freely! Look
at LOTS of different things...they may come in handy eventually!
I found a single "macramé tab topped window panel" at a local
closeout store. Its a single wine colored polyester sheer with a 8 inch
deep lace piece sewn to the top--the whole thing measures 49" x84",
and was $14. A few minutes with a seam ripper removing the lace from the
sheer, and I have the beginnings of a hip belt and skirt or scarf--all
hemmed, too! It caught my eye in the first place because the lace matches
the bra I'm embellishing now. Its not an exact match---but its quite close
enough, by the time all the other bits and pieces are added! Below you
can see the curtain and some additional copper fabric and trim. These will
be added to the hip belt, and a tube made of of the copper fabric is also
destined for part of the shoulder strap decoration--along with lots more
beads and some copper chain from the Stained Glass Supply store (they had
pewter, brass and black too!)
 You can start from scratch, and patterns like
Folkwear's #144 Tribal Style Belly
Dancer are fabulous.
(Choli: Misses Small (10-12) to 2X Large (26-28) in B, C, and D cups;
other garments gathered or tied to fit. $19.95)
Or, begin with a foundation garment and embellish away.
Start with something that's not too stretchy, or that at least has not
too much stretch in the cups.
If you are going to embellish very heavily (beading the entire thing,
for instance) start with one that is a little large, as the stitching will
reduce it a bit when completed.
Gather your beads, baubles, bells and bangles, spangles and fringes. In
order to better display the process, I'm working on one side at a time.
These garments take several sessions to complete--a good
chance to practice patience.
But not too MUCH patience, as even large cups are not such a big project
by comparison to full evening gowns. Here's what's been done so far--
- Wine colored ruffled lace with metallic accents is sewn to the top
of the cups from side to center--there's more waiting to go on the next
side hidden behind the bra. ($1 a spool on closeout--and I knew it would
go well with this piece although not an exact match)
- Gold metallic braid is sewn on directly below the under wiring seam.
Not only is it eye-catching, it will help with spacing the beaded fringe
later. Notice that the lace and braid together contribute to make the cup
look bigger. This illusion accents the bust very nicely, and adds to the
voluptuous effect.
- Lumiere paints are added as part of the background field for beading.
I've used the lace pattern of the bra itself, and merely colored in some
of the tulip style flowers and leaves. Using gold for the outlines and
copper for the centers, each small area is brushed with the Lumiere metallic
paints--I applied them straight from the container using the tip.
- Sequins were sewn on with a small gold bead to hold them in place.
They were scattered liberally around the field of the lace, but not so
thick as to cover it.
- Sequins with larger E sized gold/pink beads in between were spaced
out along the under wire section. This also accents the curve by adding
a defining line, though one that blends in with all the other embellishments.
- Size 10 pink sparkle glass seed beads are then sewn on a few at a time
around the remaining unpainted outlines on the lace. You can see I have
not yet done this to the lower right quarter of the cup. These things DO
take time!!
 Here's a fringed medallion that will be placed in the center
of the bra between the two cups. It was done separately around a glass
button, entrapping it with seed beads. It includes the same beads used
in the bra, and others. Fringe adds movement and catches visual interest---and
that's what dance is all about!
More pink, gold, copper---some crystal too!
The fringe on the bottom of the bra will be added last, in order to
put the least stress on it as I work on it. It will be composed of beads,
and more beads, and little copper bells also.
Check back soon to see progress; I'll update this page as things progress.
The necklace at left is the one seen on the doll Golde above and here.
The polymer face and faux
ivory beads are mixed with beads made from fish vertebrae and others
of glass and amber. Little brass bells at the ends of the fringe make every
movement musical. There are also beaded ornaments for her hair and her
skirt that you haven't seen yet--do please check back later!
Click here for a page of links to resources
for costumers
Copyright©1995-2008 Sarajane Helm
All rights are held by the artist
Reproduction without permission is a
violation of copyright law.
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